Trip to the Canadian Gulf Islands July 2011

On Friday, July 22, we set off for Friday Harbor, San Juan Island, as our first night on the trip to the Gulf Islands. Since we had been here 2 weeks ago we knew the route and the harbor. We had a much calmer crossing. (remember last one was very rough and Taz and Sue got seasick). I brought Taz up to the pilothouse and he was much happier since he had fresh air and was able to see out.

We docked beside a 48-ft 1952 Chris Craft. I expected Kathryn Hepburn to be having a cocktail topside when I looked over. Instead they were ordinary people with 3 dogs and a cat.

Rich and Dorothy, our partners for the trip, came in late due to attending a funeral.

Also docked at Friday Harbor were 4 dug-outs from Vancouver manned by First Nation young people who were on a tour of the San Juans. Boats are hand carved of red cedar. Traditionally they were then filled with urine to soften the wood. Today they are steamed before the benches are placed across the boat for seating. Each boat had a team rowing four to six hours each day!

Can't you imagine Kathryn Hepburn sitting here?

                                        First Nation teams rowing to Lopez Island

Saturday, July 23rd,  dawned bright and sunny, if not warm, as we headed towards the Gulf Islands.We passed Spieden Island which had once been advertised as a hunter’s paradise. Big game was brought to the island for those who did not want to travel to foreign lands to hunt. The island is now a wildlife preserve. As we passed Stuart Island and motored across Boundary Pass, we headed to South Pender Island and Bedwell Harbor to clean customs. Once cleared we headed back around S Pender to N Pender Island for moorage at Port Browning marina. If you wanted to return to early 70’s and drop out, this would be the place! Small marina, lively pub with local band, heated pool, dive lessons (water temp 46!), friendly bunch of people, large camping spot near pub,and in a totally isolated area. Down the road and thru a field was a tiny village with grocery, a used book store, wine store, small clothing store and bakery plus a gas station…what more could you need? Since we dock stern in (back in)  for Mic to easily get off the boat, everyone can look into the boat and many stop to chat. Of course with Mesa, Az under the boat name on the stern, it brings some interesting questions from dock-walkers!

Customs stop on South Pender Island

                                             Rich grilling dinner at Port Browning

Walking to grocery at Port Browning. Crossing into Canada requires strict food and liquor requirements so you must then purchase supplies on the "other side" for your trip. Actually coming back into the States is even more strict.

Marina office with pub above at Port Browning (N Pender Island)

July 24, Sunday morning , we were off to Montague Bay on Galiano Island. Beautiful journey. Islands are close together and at times only a couple of miles apart.  With binoculars you can “see” the island shorelines lined with large, gorgeous homes, with beautiful manicured lawns, each home looking like a contest winner of the architect sweepstakes. One seems to be outdoing the next one. Many are built on what appears as solid rock as the land drops into the sea. We dodged crab pots, floating logs and BC ferries but arrived safely to find there was yet a mooring buoy open in Montague Bay. More than 100+ boats dotted the bay. Each boat used their dingy to go to shore. Weather was warm and sunny…had summer finally arrived?

We had recently had our boom shortened and motorized so we could get our dingy off the top deck of our boat, so now was the moment of truth. We succeeded and it floated! I had never ridden in a dingy or driven an outboard, nor had Mic ridden in a dingy. So he and I had a learning curve. Let’s just say he learns faster than I do but by the following day I appeared to have improved if not yet mastered the process. Anchored in the bay was an old car ferry converted to a bakery. Wonderful sticky rolls and pies baked right on board.  The bay shore turned out to have beautiful beaches, white with thousands of broken shells and miles of trails for hiking with camping areas. Dog heaven! Swim anyone?

                                        Taz enjoying the ride from top side

                                   Traveling at 22 knots, the BC ferry has the right-of-way

When we pick up a buoy, we must come along side the round buoy sticking about 10 inches out of the water. Using a boat hook, you grab the buoy ring and then thread a line (rope) thru the top ring and then secure this line to your boat. All is done in slow motion since George cannot see the buoy from the pilot house and I am on the side deck directing him plus trying for the buoy. This allow us to moor without dropping anchor.

                                    The bakery boat behind the dark sailboat

                 Shore with lots of drift wood. Clear water but very cold. Mic swam until exhausted.

Monday, July 25, we again hiked and Mic swam while looking for beach crabs. Then at 1 pm we were off to Telegraph Marina on Thetis Island for 2 nights. Here again was a small harbour with long narrow docks. 2, 3 or 4 boats line up along the docks, one in front of the other. An interesting way to moor. Makes for very friendly positioning and you make friends easily.

Everyone has a large dog here, so Mic gets to make friends. We met a couple from Sedona and we all laughed about how we got our boats to the NW.

Tues morning, July 26,  we walked down the road and all caught the ferry to Chemainus, a town on the mainland of Vancouver Island. Chemainus was a center for First Nation people for thousand of years, but was settled by white people in the last 1800’s where logging large redwood cedars started an industry that is still supporting the area today, along with tourism. The town has 43 murals painted on building around the town depicting scenes of the early years. Walking maps with sidewalk footprints help make the town come alive so you visit all the shops and significantly important sites.

On the ferry to Chamainus

                                  Murals painted on walls at Chamainus depicting their history

I always thought these were spray painted, but these flowers really do grow in this lavender color

Outside a tea shop

                                              Telegraph Marina docking practice

Wednesday, July 27, we set off for Pirates Cove on De Courcy Island. This was definitely a pirate-type of bay. If you were not looking for the indicators, a large X on the tree and large white ↑ on the beach, you would not know the significance….nor would you know that those 2 signs must be lined up as you come towards shore, then once past the rocks, you must make a sharp left turn through two markers so to miss the hidden rocks at high tide. (One large sail boat did not and the fellows had to rescue the boat and crew!)When free of that narrow entrance, the boat entered an enchanted harbor lined with rock and pine trees. Just beautiful.  We anchored and stern tied to shore. Chain hooks were embedded in the rocks since this was a park area. This way the boat stayed steady during tide changes and did not swing. More boats can use a small space when moorage shared in this manner.

Next Adventure at sea

Pirates Cove Park has several hiking trails and a wonderful swimming place for Mic to enjoy. Yes, and a real treasure chest! I left a few treasures as you are invited to do. The bay was so quiet and peaceful that people even rowed to the dingy dock instead of using their motors.

Mic in dingy with Dorothy and Rich

At 2 pm on Thursday, July 28, we set off for Ganges on Saltsprings Island. Seas were calm and the sun was bright. Coming into the bay though was confusing since there are 5 marinas in one end of the bay, plus Canadian navy, and seaplanes landing. Radio help assisted us and fortunately we were on an end dock tie and had a good spot for the night. During dinner at a near-by restaurant,  there was a performance similar to Cirque du Soleil by a couple on the deck of their sailboat. They were fantastic! They have been performing for the past 7 years having sailed from France, through the Panama Channel to Hawaii and to the NW.

Saltspings Island has many artists and Ganges is a larger town and a popular port stop due to the grocery near the marina, nice restaurants, many galleries, and shops. We arrived late on Thursday and check out was 11. With stores not opening until 9:30 or 10, I had to do some fast shopping…but hey, I was up for it!

Shops at Ganges

Friday we are off to Otter Bay on N Pender Island in beautiful sunny weather and calm seas, dodging multiple vessels leaving and entering Ganges Harbor plus seaplanes and ferries. Like a freeway! Otter Bay is a small marina behind a rock seawall at the end of a long bay entrance. The marina is snug against very high rock walls with condos dotting the tops. Quaint area being refurbished, nice dock attendants but with very limited walking area for Mic and no hiking in the area. Close to US entry but not our favorite marina.  

Saturday, July 30: Next morning we set off for Roche Harbor on the NW corner on San Juan Island to clear customs. We have books that explain each harbor, how to enter to avoid rocks, and the dock drawings help you navigate the bay and marina. Roche Harbor is very large once you clear the rocky entrance…but then it becomes a total nightmare for first timers…and it was Saturday at noon! We first had trouble locating the narrow dock for customs tie-up. Had to weave in and around yachts (150 ft) and sailboats anchored in the harbor. When we finally located the custom dock, we had to get in line. Keeping a 20 ton vessel “in line” was nerve racking for George…especially when others are right on your stern and the wind was trying to blow us into the dock. Then there is always the fellow who cuts in line! But after an hour we finally made it to tie-up for customs which we cleared in about 10-15 min and were off and routed towards Reid Harbor on Stuart Island. This was only about 45 min north of Roche Harbor and a popular stopping spot for anchor for those returning from Canadian waters. The bay is so popular that we could not find a mooring buoy so anchored out. Anchoring in strong winds or currents is like being on a merry-go-around at times only in slow motion. Plenty of trails dot 70% of the island and the weather held throughout the day.

We journeyed home on Sunday in very strong currents which held us to 2.8 knots for a couple of hours. Usual speed is 6-7 knots. We had a wonderful time in the islands. We so much thank Rich and Dorothy for allowing us to tag along on their vacation so we now feel more comfortable heading out to those islands on our own next time.  Was a wonderful experience!